Frequently asked questions and their answers:
Legend: "code" = National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) National
Electric Code (NEC)
What type of electrical work do you do?
What is your service area?
May I get a list of references?
What type of automation do you do?
Why do so many contractors I call for a quote not show a real interest?
How can I pick a good contractor?
Why do I need a service upgrade and who determines the need?
I have never lost all of my power due to an overload, so why am I still being told I need a new service?
Why do my lights dim at random times, then go back to normal?
Why do you charge for estimates?
Why are your rates higher than others?
What is one of the main problems you encounter when troubleshooting?
What is a neutral
(see within #12)?What is a shared neutral(see within #12)?
What are your rates?
Will you drive to my home or business for free and also work for free?
Will you repair or replace any item you install in my home, for free ?
We want the work done like you do it but for less money, will you recommend someone?
How high should I mount my dining room chandelier?
We are having an addition/remodel but will not be furnishing it right away, any suggestions?
I do all types of electrical work for homes and some commercial properties. My focus is residential customers who require Electrical Excellence, a step up from the ordinary or average installation service. I prefer installing products from well established manufacturers and built with quality as a defining term of use. I couple these products with my attention to detail, and deliver a final package worthy of its surroundings - your home or office. And remember, anything electrical can be automated or integrated into a complete automation system, not just the lighting.
2. What is your service area?I enjoy working within San Mateo County and San Francisco, most often in Atherton, Hillsborough, Los Altos Hills, Palo Alto, Portola Valley, Woodside, San Francisco and a few areas within the greater Bay area. I will work other places where Electrical Excellence is a requisite. My time is valuable to me, as is the time of most everyone I work for, so I will bill for travel time.
3. May I get a list of references?I have never asked anyone for permission to use them as a reference and I doubt I ever will. All of my work is via word-of-mouth, so the people I work for know at least one other person on our list as clients.
4. What type of automation do you do?Anything that has a controllable feature is a candidate for an automation scheme. I typically provide lighting automation with Litetouch or Lutron as the preferred systems. If you are going beyond lighting automation (audio/video, security, etc.), I like to work in conjunction with Audio Arts to insure a professionally designed, installed, and integrated system. Having others, with professional experience in their field, perform what they do best helps insure Electrical Excellence.
I also do control design/build for some of Rollamatic's more complex control schemes, and at times integrate this with Litetouch or Lutron.
5. Why do so many contractor's I call for a quote not show a real interest?There are times when an individual has an idea or a concept but needs help finalizing the design. When a contractor is called and hears "I would like you to come out and look at a kitchen I am planning", it means there is still a lot of design work ahead. I like to ask if there are drawings. If there are no drawings or design in place, it usually means I will spend a lot of my time providing input and helping make design decisions, time that many people do not seem to want to be charged for. If you want competent contractors to bid on your work, you need to have completed as much of the design work as possible, whether by yourself, a designer, or an architect . It may help you to review the California State Contractor's License Board page about what you need to do before getting a contractor involved. Or, give us a call! I will be more than happy to lend some guidance. If you would like to pay for design time, I will do design work.
6. How can I pick a good contractor?Call us! Another great way is by references or recommendations from friends. If someone you trust cannot recommend a contractor to you and you call a contractor, ask for a list of the last three jobs comparable to what you would like done. Absolutely go to the California State Contractor's License Board and check out their license number, verify the owner's name and insurance, and see if there are any unresolved complaints.
7. Why do I need a service upgrade and who determines the need?You will need a service upgrade as soon as the calculated load of your home exceeds the load rating of your service or when you begin tripping the main breaker due to overload. A calculated load only takes into a consideration a portion of your home's connected loads and a person's lifestyle may go beyond the calculation. Typically a competent electrician may make the initial determination, in that the calculations are based on existing code requirements. However, once you get into the service size of most custom homes, an engineer's stamped calculations is your greatest assurance of conformity and safety. Aretae Electric is able to do all of the initial calculations for you. If it becomes necessary, the information I gather and organize may then be used by an engineer to finalize.
8. I have never lost all of my power due to an overload, so why am I still being told I need a new service?A loss of power or dimming lights due to overload is not always the primary problem with an undersized service. Undersized services can also cause a voltage drop to the extent electrically powered devices are damaged, such as motors in large appliances. If you ever notice your lights dimming momentarily when a motor is turned on, this may be an indication that your service is reaching or has exceeded its ability to provide power at a proper voltage level.
9. Why do my lights dim at times, then go back to normal?The voltage must drop for the lights to dim. Dimming may be an indication of the need for a service upgrade. However, there are times where the utility providing power is not providing it at the level necessary for your service needs, either due to undersized wires and/or a transformer being too far from your home. Some utilities will baulk at making the necessary upgrades until they have forced the home/business owner to make unnecessary upgrades to their equipment. Have a competent electrical contractor review your service before you proceed with any work you will have to pay for.
10. Why do you charge for estimates?I typically DO NOT charge established clients for estimates. However, when I receive calls from people who do not have plans or designs, and who need further design help, I must recoup the cost of coming out or sending someone out. Very often the input I provide to such persons is then passed along to other electrical contractors who then use the information to perform the work with less effort on their part. I am not in a position where I need or want to spend money with little chance of being awarded a project, in essence paying to improve someone else's house. Therefore, I do charge a service fee to visit customers whose sole intent is to solicit ideas and potential costs. If you would like to save a little money, come to our office or email me, I will be glad to reply.
11. Why are your rates higher than others?I have found that my rates are only higher than those electrical contractors whose sole goal is to get in and out of a jobsite with a minimal amount of effort. Yes, they may save you money up front, but I am often asked to come in and make reparations to the electrical system after they have left your job. I have been here since 1985 and have an established clientele who understand that a professionally installed system takes time and requires quality materials, as well as wanting assurance of a safely operating home upon completion. I carry full bonding and liability. I am not interested in doing any work where the "cheapest" price is the main focus. My rates are actually less than many noted high-end electrical contractors.
12. What is one of the main problems you encounter when troubleshooting?One of the main problems starts with something initially allowed by the code and is subsequently compromised by inept electricians, landscapers, "do-it-yourselfers", handymen, etc; "shared neutrals". First of all, what is a neutral? It is using what the code defines as a grounded conductor, or the electrical wire (typically one of two, three (most often on a home), or four wires, with no insulation on it if overhead, from the utility to your home. It is attached to the ground, then all wires into your home that are common to this wire have a white insulation on them (neutral) or green (ground), or are bare (ground). The neutral makes a complete circuit, a path for the electricity to move on. Every 1/60th of a second the electricity flows in on one wire, through whatever you are turning on, then out on another, then reverses direction the next 1/60th of a second, etc.
The code allows for the neutral to be "shared", in that one neutral may be used to complete the circuit for one of each of the other wires coming into your home. This is "OK" if the code is strictly adhered to. However, what normally seems to take place is either someone comes along and "shares" it with circuits that should have their own neutral somewhere else in the house to complete something they are too lazy to bring the proper neutral to, or too hindered by what someone is willing to pay them.
A greater problem arises when you want to add a generator to your home but only want to feed certain circuits. ALL circuits sharing a neutral must be added to the loads in a panel fed from a generator, e.g, if you have two dishwashers on two separate circuits and they share a neutral, it is not safe and is a code violation to move only one of them into the generator fed panel. I have seen installations where the neutral stays in one panel and the "hots" come from the generator fed panel.
15. WHAT ARE YOUR RATES?See my RATE PAGE followed by my special FAQ's (if necessary)
16. Will you drive to my home or business for free and also work for free?If I know you, most likely. Otherwise, probably not. See the rates FAQ.
17. Will you repair or replace any item you install in my home, for free?This is most often no, because people do not include it in their request for a bid. Please see #4 on the rates FAQ section of this page page, then review the CSLB site relative to warranties. For someone that guarantees everything on earth, please go to http://www.cheapocontractors.org.
18. We want the work done like you do it but for less money, will you recommend someone else?Well, I cannot but you may wish to look for one at http://www.cheapocontractors.org.
19. How high should I mount my chandelier?There is a rule of thumb on chandelier installations over dining room tables:
To make sure that the dining area has plenty of illumination,
mount the chandelier approximately 3 inches above the surface of the
dining room table for every 1 foot of ceiling height. For a nine
foot ceiling, that would mean the fixture should rest roughly 27-30
inches above the table. (http://www.simplychandeliers.com/dining-room-chandeliers.html
),
but I only agree to an extent.
If the ceiling is less than 9 then 24 is rather low, and as one approaches 20', well, maybe it gets a little too high. I have found that 30-32 is good for shorter height ceiling. As things move down or up it is often best is to sit down and measure from table top to your eyes, then set the chandelier so it does not obstruct your vision of those you would like to look at while you talk. If you have taller friends (from the waist up), then add a tad. Does this not sound scientific?
When you get into these homes with 20 foot ceilings, the 3 rule may
diminish as well, then you almost have to hang the item and look at it
before finalizing its installation.
Higher and pay a competent planner/designer/architect. There is not much I can recommend electrically. Art work, furniture location, pathways, egress, and much more all play a part in lighting and power needs. PLAN the furnishings and wire with the plan in mind. I have sometimes looped power feeds in walls in the event Murphy beds are going in - no known size and no knowledge of what goes to each side - to allow for cutting in electrical outlets in the future. Minimally, we need to know what you think is going to go into a room.
This SECTION is NOT meant for those whom I do regular work for. It is for those who recently started treating me as though I should find it a privilege to work on their stuff, such a privilege that I should be honored to donate money toward their home or business. Hopefully, after reading it, you will either choose to have me work for you (I do great work) AND pay me, or you will not call me.
After doing this a LONG time, I have probably heard
all types of reasons as to why I should do just this, however, I love my
family, I like eating, and I have to pay my bills; free work infringes
on everyone of these. Therefore, I do not provide work for free unless I
choose to do so of my own volition with no urging from others. When I do
any work or free, it will be shown as a credit on your invoice, so it
will be a surprise/gift for you. In essence I "trade" work for money
unless you want to come crawl around under my house.
I completely understand that many
people are under the false impression that once a contractor is hired
all kinds of things not specified in the contract are going to be cared
for FOR FREE!. Some contractors do this at great cost to themselves
and/or their families. However, I have also found that most people are very
understanding once they have an accurate knowledge of what a contractor
is bound to do and what should be paid for as an extra. Here are a few things
people ask or make comments on, showing a basic misunderstanding.
I have given you a lot of work, can't you do some work for free?
This xxx stopped working, we want it repaired or replaced for free.
I should not be penalized for my architect or designer not getting it right.
My responses:
I have given you a lot of work, can't you do some work for free?
How many of you who are employed and have work EVERY DAY also have an employer that wants you to work for free because they have "given" you a lot of work?
I am planning a lot of work, can you give me a break?
I am worth what I get paid, just as I am sure you feel you deserve your compensation for work efforts rendered. If your employer has a lot of work planned, is there an expectation that you will then devote a bunch of time for free because they are going to "give" you more?
We need you to come to our house for a meeting.
This is absolutely fine if every minute I am away from my family, doing something for your home or business, you are paying me for it. If I get stuck in traffic, this is not my fault. I now endeavor to incorporate this into contracts, etc., but sometimes I forget. If I have not included an allowance for meetings, and you do not have it within the specifications, and you do not preface or end your request with "We expect to pay you for this as an extra" they absolutely are not included as part of the job, it is not a requirement nor should it be an expectation.
Warranties: You may find it to your advantage to review the State Contractor's License Board, specifically here: http://www.cslb.ca.gov/Consumers/HireAContractor/HomeImprovementContracts/WhatIsAContract.asp Here is the section you may wish to do some research on:
"Be sure to get any warranty offered by the contractor for labor and materials in writing either for work done by the contractor or manufacturer warranties."
Please notice that the wording is "Offered" not "Required". I warranty my labor, I do not make nor do I warranty materials. If you want something more than the manufacturer's warranty, such as me honoring their warranty, for any materials I purchase, then you need to let me know prior to any bid. I will mark the material up 30% instead of 15% and then "offer" you a warranty. If you do not want to pay me to honor the manufacturer's warranty, then I will charge you to remove and/or replace a defective item. OR, you may go buy everything, not pay any markup, and assume all responsibility.
Oh no, we do not want that plug there.
If a plug or a switch or a cable TV outlet, or a phone outlet, or whatever is on a drawing with NO stipulated requirement as to its exact location, it gets installed at the most convenient spot.
This device needs to be centered. See #5.
Specific locations must be noted prior to a bid being made. Bids are based on information provided and items are installed per the bid. No specific noted location? Then no specific installation.
Why do these materials look so cheaply constructed?
If you have made this a competitive bid, where I must provide a price in competition with others, and you do not provide concise specifications, such as manufacturer and model number, then you force us all to find and use the least expensive items possible. As an example, we all may want a Prescolite recessed can, but you only want to pay for an Elite. I try and note at the top of my proposal what the materials are.
Why is paying you a month or two later such a big deal?
First I am not a bank. Second, it is actually ok if you pay the state allowed interest rate, something like the worst credit card on earth. I pay everyone that I use as a subcontractor and I pay for all materials, why can't you pay me? All payments are due upon receipt of invoice or per contract. This is included in any good contract:
"Finance Charges - Must be laid out separately from the contract amount."
Other links:
I should not be penalized for my architect or designer not getting it right.
Even more-so, I should not be penalized for what your architect or designer does or does not do.
This implies I might not be a nice person, that you need to request it. I am a very nice person, please be nice to me.
Are there less expensive contractor's you will recommend?
Please see #18 in the standard FAQ section or go right to cheapocontractors.org.
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